Time hasn't been gentle on this beauty. Luckily, I easily could see the potential in her curvy legs, intricate carved detailing, solid wood frame, and gold paint and brought her home. After all, she's the perfect recipe for paint!
With the new Annie Sloan Chalk Paint color just out, Antoinette, I knew exactly the color I was going to paint her! The upholstery, that's a whole different story! ;)
After a complete strip down of old tapestry on top of even older tapestry, batting, straw, and springs I gave little Antoinette a wipe down and started in with paint. After a light distressing to reveal the gold paint that lie underneath, I finished her with a loving rub down of clear wax. I love this chair. I love how even after all these years and all the bumps she's endured, she's still beautiful, still strong, and most importantly still around for many to enjoy for many years to come. Antoinette is very sturdy and I could sit in it and enjoy the fruits of my labor, but simply looking at this beautiful chair refreshes my soul. What refreshes your soul?
and asked for your questions. The time has come to answer some of those questions!
"The table and chair set that I am about to start on is from the 50's and its pretty grimey. I'm curious if I need to sand it first to knock off some of the grime so the paint will adhere??"
Sometimes, the furniture is just dirty. To properly clean dirty furniture, use Murphy's Oil Soap in HOT HOT HOT water...being careful not to burn yourself;) Rinse well & allow to completely dry.
Other times, the finish is bubbly and damaged by dust cleaners such as Pledge that can break down the finish. For a damaged, grimey finish, it is best to give it a sand with 220 sand paper to knock off the grime. Remove dust and you're ready to paint!
"My question is about color, I have to buy a white ( I have Emperor's Silk and Paris Gray) and wonder why no one uses the Pure White? When I see pictures of Old White the color looks "whiter" than what is on the color card which seems more like a very soft vanilla or cream. Have you used Pure White, does it look too bright and contemporary?"
Old White is more soft vanilla or a warmer white than Pure White. I often compare Pure White to copy paper...that bright white. A great color for a more contemporary look!
Considering these amazing Chalk Paint™ decorative paint by Annie Sloan™ are Eco friendly, from time to time some colors are a little thinner than other colors. Pure White does seem to be more thin. An easy and quick remedy is to pop the whole can in the fridge for about 20 minutes. The cooler temperature condenses the components of the paint, naturally causing thickness without adding chemicals!
Another tip to thicken some of the Chalk Paint™ decorative paint by Annie Sloan™ colors is to pour out the amount of paint you will be using and allow the water to evaporate slightly. This too will help with coverage.
Some have found it helpful with Pure White to have a base coat of Old White. I have not personally seen this done, so I'm sorry I can't give you my personal opinion on this.
This is a dresser that Sherrie from A Ruffled Nest painted with Pure White, 2 coats straight from the can. Looks awesome! Take a peak!
"My biggest question...buffing it to make it shinier..how long should I wait? Would lightly sanding it again and doing another coat of wax make it more durable?"
There are a few things that will help with shine...
First let me say this is not the Annie Sloan™ method for painting. This method I'm about to mention is how I have achieved an incredible shine and silky smooth finish.
Use a foam roller to create an ultra smooth finish, using Chalk Paint™ straight from the can. No thinning required. Paint your second coat the same as the first. Allow to dry. Sand in a circular motion using 220 sand paper. Distress edges as you wish. After sanding with 220, use 600 grit sand paper, again in a circular motion. This will start to become shiny.
It is DUSTY! Use a dust mask:) Wipe away any dust with a dry lint free cloth. I do not like tack paper as the dust is too fine and it looses tackiness quickly.
Using the wax, give it a nice even coat...think of hand lotion. Rub the wax into the paint until the paint won't accept any more....ie you put too much lotion on your hands, you wipe it off. Same concept.
Once the wax is fully absorbed (a minute or two of rubbing in) wipe away the excess. Come back at 8-12 hours later and do a greasy finger test. (Remember eating fried chicken as a kid and then rubbing your greasy little fingers all over your glass, mirror, or fridge? Um...maybe that was just me :)
SO, the greasy finger test...if you have left too much wax on the piece, it will leave a greasy finger print. Take another lint free cloth and wipe away any of the greasy finger prints.
At the 24 hour mark (24 hours after your initially applied the wax) buff with Ripple Cloth till you get a beautiful sheen. Love Ripple Cloth! Soft cheese cloth type material AWESOME for buffing! This will give an AMAZING sheen! Not lacquer type finish, but wonderful soft, silky sheen.
Sanding between waxing will only distress your piece. I do not recommend that if you are trying to achieve a nice sheen.
For added protection, it is recommended to WWB, WWB, WWB. What is that? Wax your piece as described above. Wait 24 hours and then Buff. Do this 3 times WAITING 24 hours between each WWB.
If you apply wax BEFORE the 24 hour wait (hardening stage), you are only re-emulsifying the wax. No protection there and you can easily end up with too much wax..which hardens, can become tacky, and isn't fun to buff. Make your life EASY and follow these EASY tips :)
"How long do I have to wait to use my piece? What's the cure time?"
Awesome question. It is important to wait 28 days! YES! 28 days for a true cure of the paint and wax. If you choose to use your piece before the recommended 28 day cure, you risk damaging the finish.
Flashing, and fogging are most common problems when using a piece too soon.
A Double flash!
Flashing: Just like in a dry wall patch that wasn't primed, you can get the same flash with the wax. I put a trophy with a felt protective disk on the bottom, on a buffet here in the shop. It was too soon and as the rest of the buffet was allowed to cure properly, wax to dry completely over time before use. Under the trophy, the air was trapped and there is a perfect little circle when the wax flashed...isn't shiny like it should be.
To fix a flash, WWB! :) That easy!
If you are using a glaze, and do not allow glaze to dry 24-48 hours before protecting the finish with a final WWB, it can haze over or worse yet, the glaze can come off! Humidity and heat play a factor in glaze drying. Additional time may be required for those hot & humid days.
Another fogging issue is not giving it a final WWB with clear soft wax. This seals in the glaze and give you that beautiful sheen that only Chalk Paint™ decorative paint by Annie Sloan™ can give. Yes, it's an extra step, but SO worth it.
To fix a Fog: WWB! Again, that easy! :)
Alrighty! There are some of your questions answered! I hope you have found them to be helpful when you are using the best paint in the world, Chalk Paint™ decorative paint by Annie Sloan™!!!
If you have more questions, drop me a line, post on my FB, or pop in the store:)
With my last post "Thoughts on Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ Revisited" I have had several questions on technique, application, results, and much more. Which was exactly what I was hoping for! I am working on having a Q&A post to come out in a few days. SO~ if you have any questions about anything Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™, feel free to email me at Christie@CarterscottageInteriors.com and I will add your question to this post!
It's been just over a year since I gave my first review on Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™. A lot has happened in that short time...from initial interest to buying it to writing a review and now selling it...it's been one very busy year!
Considering I am a Certified Trainer for Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™, I thought it was time to re-write the review and answer some frequently asked questions. Oh, and please post your questions here. Your questions will not only help you, but also others reading this!
The Price: Yes, the price question comes up every day! I continue to sell all Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ and products at the lowest possible price. The paint retails in my shop and at my online shop for $34.95. I do sincerely encourage you to find a retailer near you! There is nothing like chatting in person with the wonderful retailers! The incite you will gain from visiting with your local retailer is priceless! To find a retailer nearest you, visit this link Find a Retailer.
Is it worth the price. I often answer with "How valuable is your time?". Once you buy primer & paint..prime the piece, sand the piece, touch up prime, sand again, paint, wait, paint again, and wait 28-30 days before distressing....if you can wait and don't mind a plastic feel...then maybe this paint isn't for ya~ For those who are about as patient as a hungry 6 week old baby, then this paint is worth every ounce!
It's not just a time thing~ I wish I had a penny for every time a customer came into the shop and commented on how luxurious the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ pieces feel! They are so soft to the touch...even purists have commented on how lovely they are.
To Roll or to Brush. In true Annie Sloan fashion, you should brush. The texture that can be created is amazing! I have painted with many, MANY different paints and truly non compare! I love all the different textures I can create just by letting the can sit open for a short while. And when you finish with dark wax, the old world look is stunning! I also believe the finishes you can achieve with this paint shouldn't be limited to just brushes. Grab a roller for an ultra modern finish...cardboard for a leathery look...a feather for a light, airy paint finish...a fork for scratching designs in top layers to reveal colors that lay beneath. Have I tried any of these other tools...YES! :)
1 or 2 Coats. I say 1 coat right out of the can and the second slightly watered down. There is no need to have 2 thick coats...this paint covers incredibly well. With the second coat watered down, the distressing is much easier. Plus it makes your quart last that much longer!
Minwax or Annie Sloan™ Soft Wax. Wow have I regretted using Minwax! This too is one of my most frequently asked questions. My only defense was I didn't know better! I now only use Annie Sloan™ Soft Wax in clear and dark. Minwax most likely will cause discoloration. I've had customers pop in and say the whole thing was fine except for 1 drawer, or one side...it pinked or yellowed, or even greened! Don't take any chances! Annie has paired these two products together because it works! And Annie has years of experience working with her paint...after all she created it! ;)
Waxing before Distressing. Again, I have to say in true Annie fashion, there is much less dust when you wax first and distress/sand second. There is also another great benefit to this. By applying the wax prior to distressing/sanding, you are allowing the paint to soften so when sanded it's much quicker. You'll end up with little pea like balls of wax and paint, but simply brush them away and apply another coat of wax for the best finish.
Just as there are many different ways to use the paint, there is equally as many different ways to use the wax when distressing. Experiment with what works best for you. I also have used a scotch bright, baby wipe, paper towel-not a great choice, no wax, dark wax, and a burnishing brush to create different affects.
So I've changed a few of my answers from my initial post, but I a still a firm believer in Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™! It is the only paint I use and I have found great joy in creating new colors.
I hope you have learned something new by reading this. If you still have a question, let me know! I will do my very best to answer it and if I can't I will find the answer! Want to email me instead of post your question? Not a problem! Email me at Christie@CartersCottageInteriors.com