To Prime or NOT to Prime, That is the question!
YOU NEVER PRIME! That's right, NEVER prime. You see, priming doesn't work because it's all chemical. It doesn't have a foundation for wood to respond to naturally which is why priming never works. Especially the water based primers...these simply draw out the tannins or natural pigment in the wood. What does work is shellac.
Shellac is a sealant & finish for raw wood for protection against water & humidity.
Tip #2 be sure to mix the shellac up properly according to the manufacturers recommendation. If you don't, it will not seal the raw wood properly and can potentially ruin your painted finish. It can take up to 2 coats for the best results.
Tip #3 Shellac comes CLEAR and TINTED. Unless I'm using Pure White, I always use CLEAR. This allows me to distress darker colors without seeing a halo of white tint. Not very attractive when wanting to achieve a modern finish with Graphite~
Shellac functions as a tough natural sealant, sanding sealant, tannin-blocker, and high-gloss varnish.
It can be used for the following purposes:
It can be used for the following purposes:
· Use one or two coats to
remove musty smells on untreated wood.
· Use one or two coats to
prevent the tannins within knot holes or open grain from bleeding through.
· With some pieces of
furniture, typically pieces from the 1930s & 1940s, after painting the
first coat there is either a yellow or pink stain, which bleeds through the
paint. Resist the urge to apply another coat of paint. No matter how many coats
you paint, the stain color will continue to bleed through. Use one or two coats
of shellac to block these bleeding stains. Annie recommend wiping it on with a
cloth pad. It dries in minutes and you can get on with painting almost
immediately!
· Shellac preforms best
when applied with a rag or brush.
· Get in the habit of
dating your can; shellac has a shelf life of only 6-9 months.
Shellac is HIGHLY flammable as it's key ingredient is denatured alcohol. Be sure to use in a well ventilated area away from flame & spark! On the upside of this, it dries in minutes! You know, pros with the cons always! lol~
Next week, we will talk sanding & sand papers.
Until then~ Happy shellac-ing!







Thanks for the informative post, I learned the hard way with a piece from the 30's. Now if there is any question I use shellac :)
ReplyDeleteCould you use it on waxed pine? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHello Emma Kate! Awesome question! From my experience, it works best on any waxed piece if you first wipe the piece down with odorless colorless mineral spirits. The mineral spirits will break down the wax and you can easily wipe the wax off with a paper towel. Once wiped down, allow the m.s. to completely evaporate about 24 hours, then you are ready to shellac :)
DeleteHope this helps!
Christie
Hi Christie, I will have to try this! I think 'mineral spirit' must be 'white spirit' here in the UK.
DeleteThank you! Emma Kate
Yes, white spirit in the UK is the same as mineral spirit here in the US :)
DeleteHappy New Year!
I want to make sure I'm understanding your technique and process. Do you use the shellac FIRST then paint over it? or are you talking about sealing over the painted surface with it?
ReplyDeleteI also have the same question above....before painting or after painting to seal it?
ReplyDelete